The morning fog is pretty much burnt off as we carry the pontoon boats down to the river's edge and set them on the water. After a bit of checking and adjusting to ensure fly rods and dry bags are securely attached, there is a little jockeying around and the usual game of bumper boats as we push off into the current. It is early autumn and the leaves are starting to display their fall colors. The orange, red and bright yellow foliage lightens up the landscape. It doesn't take long before the presence of the river fills the senses with the sound of water as it gurgles and bubbles over and around the rocks; we hear the shriek of the eagles perched high in the trees as they fan their wings in the early morning sun and the cawing of the gulls that are flocked on the rocks along the river bank. There is a big splash as a bright red sockeye salmon swirls in the shallows, and many more are jumping and belly flopping on the water's surface. The place is alive with activity promising a great day floating the Stellako river. The put in to start the drift is at the head of the river just below the Glennanan bridge. The water flows out of the east end of Francois Lake, the province's second longest natural lake, and empties below into the smaller Fraser Lake. The Stellako River is approximately 11 km long, with a drop from lake to lake of 45m (145 feet) in elevation. Many years ago, the river was used as a working waterway by the pioneers, as they drifted logs down from the booms gathered at the Francois Lake logging camps in order to supply the sawmills at Fraser Lake. Today, only some of the historic names remain to identify a few of the runs and pools, such as Tie Chute, Wingdam and Millionaire's Pool. On this fine fall morning, I drift a few hundred yards downstream, and drop anchor to hold the pontoon boat in knee-deep water and hopped out. I figure this is as good a place as any to start, and would give everyone a chance to spread out. It wasn't long before my buddy Dale was into a pretty rainbow. So I waded downstream and started to eye up some clear green water where a few sockeye were seen holding. I had just casted out when two young men approached in their inflatable raft. To get my attention one of them hollered "Good Morning". I didn't noticed them put in upstream and respond, "Good morning, beautiful day to be fishing." "Not today," one of them replies. "We are drifting down the river to count the spawners." I ask what the count was so far. "It is looking pretty good," one of the young men replies. "Fifty-five thousand fish have already entered the river so far this run." We quickly discuss the river conditions and wish each other well as they drift by. In a peak season's total from previous years, there have been as many as 350,000 fish return. It is an amazing journey; the sockeye have swum hundreds of kilometers up the Fraser River. Turning left, they swim another 150 or more kilometers up the Nechako River, and then into the Nautley River, claimed to be the world's shortest river, under a kilometer in length. With a stillwater swim in Fraser Lake the sockeye ascend the Stellako River to spawn, and then exhausted, their spent carcasses will decompose adding nutrients to the river and lake. The upper stretch of the river is accessible by foot and can be rewarding for the flyfishers that enjoy a walk and wade. A narrow trail on the east bank parallels several kilometers of runs and pools. The upper river is a popular retreat in the late spring and summer months to flyfish for rainbows with an assortment of dry flies. The lower section of the river has very limited public access as it flows through private land and the Stellat'en community to the highway. Since the water level is a little lower in the fall, rowing through the top section and threading through the boulders can make for a bit of an obstacle course. In shallow water it is difficult at times not to get a pontoon hung up on a rock. This has happened to me a few times, and the boat is swung sideways by the current. Once I was stuck in fast water; Rob was conveniently close behind. "Hit me," I yelled. Rob laughed and said, "Hang on," aiming for the front of my pontoon with his boat. He laid into the oars and with a burst of speed, gave my boat a good bump, freeing me from the rock and sending us both side by side down the rapids. The boulders strewn along the gravel riverbed can range from bowling ball to tabletop size. A few clustered areas take a bit of navigating through, but overall most large rocks in the river are fairly scattered, making pontooning and wading quite enjoyable. The picturesque little river winds through southern-sloped hillsides, a mossy overgrown forest where you can feel the change in temperature as you float through, and several miniature canyons with steep rocky walls. Halfway down river we pull up alongside a big sand bar complemented by a deep green pool to enjoy a shore lunch. It is customary to gather a little firewood and build a campfire to roast hotdogs and cold fingers. We share each other's fishing success, such as who thought what run was best, plan where we will stop on the way down, and discuss the adventure of coming down the rapids. I find it enjoyable to just sit in the sand and watch others fish the head of the pool. After a few casts and a slow drift down deep, one of the guys connects with a nice plump rainbow that surfaces a few times to give us all a look. We clap and cheer and take pleasure in the release until it is time to move on, as we still have to get around the falls. The Stellako River has attained classified river status and contains a section that is designated Flyfishing only. The Nature Trust of B.C. purchased properties along the river to ensure its banks remain undeveloped and to retain the riparian zone that provides a habitat for the fish and wildlife. The countryside that surrounds the river is a thriving wilderness area for many animals. Large moose that wander down to the shallows for a drink inhabit the fir, cottonwood and aspen forest. It is exhilarating to watch the mule deer bounding across the river. It is not uncommon to encounter a few black bears busily feeding on the abundance of grasses, berries and fish, or to occasionally hear the wolves howling over the sound of flowing water. On one particular drift I ran into several of the neighborhood black bears. I don't panic too much when I see one bear, but three is too many. It was dusk and the take out was about a kilometer away, when rounding one of the last bends in the river, I spotted big black shapes on the shore. The biggest bear, which I assumed to be mother, heard me as she crouched down to see what I was. I started to row upstream to slow myself down and assess the situation. Her cubs were almost as big as she was. Bears always seem to look bigger standing up on the shore. I rowed to the opposite side of the river really quickly and jumped out to hold the boat. I unsheathed my bear spray and contemplated how fast I could row past them, but the river is pretty narrow and shallow here. I thought maybe stopping was a mistake; I can't go upstream, so should I yell at them? It seemed like forever, but it was only a minute or two before I spotted my buddy Dale, coming around the corner. I hollered, "Bears," and he answered, "where?" The bears, hearing people, slipped into the bush. Dale floated by me and shrugged his shoulders, "I don't see anything," he said with a chuckle, and rowed for the take out. Feeling a little sheepish, I sighed with relief, swallowed the lump in my throat and quickly followed. The target fish are the rainbows from the adjoining lakes that enter the river and, with the resident trout, feed primarily on the sockeye eggs. The rainbows are as varied in size as they are in color and can be spotted flanking the female sockeye trying to get at the eggs she has laid. Periodically, the large sockeye bucks will turn and charge a rainbow that is getting too close in an effort to chase them away from their spawning beds. The Flyfishing only area starts at a posted sign 250 meters below the bridge and extends downstream four kilometers. The fishing regulation is barbless hooks, no sinkers or floats and rainbow trout release. For fishing gear, a five to six-weight rod works well; it is not too heavy for the average fish but great for landing the bigger rainbows and the odd salmon. A short leader of four to six pound test knotted to a sink tip line is used to get the fly down in most of the runs. The staple fly patterns consist of orange, pink or red eggs tied in a small ball on the hook with wool or fluorescent synthetics. The fishing method is a little reminiscent of steelheading, as the way the water is approached is similar. After finding where the sockeye are congregating, the line is cast across and downstream, one or two mends is added to slow down the drift and sink the line depending on the current speed, and then it is drifted with a straight line across the run. Numerous areas of the river are shallow enough to wade out into the middle and herringbone, which is casting alternately from shore to shore and drifting the fly to the center where the line can be left to dangle a moment. If a hit or bump is felt, the process is repeated and if there is no response, advancing a few feet forward can make all the difference. Casting room is plentiful on the river with ample room for back casts, but a few productive areas heavily surrounded by brush on both sides are very tempting. I have added a few flies to the surrounding trees that are already adorned with an assortment of flies from cast gone astray. The water clarity is excellent in some of the shallower runs and pools, so sight-fishing can be quite thrilling. The bright red sockeye are easily spotted and upon closer observation, the light green translucent backs of the rainbows can be seen following them. If the egg is presented floating down and in front of the trout, it is quite often accepted with a smack and a quick run downstream. The well-fed rainbows fight hard and combined with the current, can make short work of four and sometimes six pound test leader, becoming a real challenge to land. Another surprise for the angler is a healthy population of mountain white fish that also target the sockeye eggs. In a few runs, the catch ratio is a real mixed bag. The trip down river has some peaceful moments with several lengthy slow-water stretches that require rowing, and to really get the adrenalin pumping there are a good number of challenging swift whitewater rapids, including an impassible waterfall by the power lines. I suppose it is possible to go over it, but with cameras and rods why risk it? The take out at the falls portage is in pretty quick water at the end of a long set of rapids right before the falls; it is tight and requires working the oars. A few of the more adventurous kayakers get a real kick playing in the turbulent water. The float takes about three to four hours but combined with fishing will make for a full day, and as always, the time flies by, so we have to pace ourselves to avoid having to row out in the dark. The truck can be a welcome sight when only a few moments of light is still available. The take out most widely used is located at the Stellako Bridge on Highway 16. The Stellako River is located two kilometers west of the community of Fraser Lake. It is couple hour's (150 km) drive from the city of Prince George. There is a wide range of accommodation in the area, from riverside cabins at the Stellako Lodge situated at the head of the river, to camping in the numerous private or provincial parks. The community of Fraser Lake has all the amenities plus there are a few fishing and hunting lodges on the area's local lakes. When looking for a wilderness oasis, and some quality fishing, fall fishing for rainbows during the sockeye run on the Stellako River is a great day trip. In preparation to floating the Stellako or any river it is always a good idea to inquire about current conditions, water levels, obstructions and locations of fish fences to help ensure an enjoyable outing. River gear for the float. To float the river, we use pontoon boats that range in length from eight to ten feet. These boats are lightweight and easily maneuverable, capable of floating through the shallowest of water, and some pretty big waves. The pontoon boat should have a strong frame with durable pontoons and a sturdy pair of oars is a worthy feature. A five-pound anchor to hold the boat in the slow current is convenient to use throughout the river, and the rope is also used to guide the boat around obstructions. Dry bags are indispensable in keeping items from getting wet and great for carrying a spare change of clothes, jacket and rain gear, as well as food and drink. I also bring along bear spray, a personal floatation device, patch kit, and a small air pump. A rod/reel case is strapped to the boat frame to protect the fly rod when going down the many rapids. Waders are worn to keep dry and warm with a pair of felt-soled wading boots to help with footing. A small file is handy to keep the hook sharp after it has been nicked on the rocks.

Orange Egg Fly Dressing Hook: Mustad 9671 size 10 - 12 Bead: gold tungsten for weight Thread: light green 6/0 Body: 5mm orange sparkle egg, few strands white antron

Photos and text by Lewis Johnson